Crack the Permit code:
A complete guide to catching
the black tip devils

Table of Contents

• Understanding the Permit
• When and where to find them
• Moon phases: new moon vs. full moon
• Weather and conditions
• Essential gear and tackle
• Recommended flies
• Techniques and strategies for success
• Casting and presentation
• Targeting multiple fish
• Strip set
• Fighting the fish once it's hooked
• Frequently asked questions
• Book a charter

Understanding the Permit

Permit (Trachinotus falcatus) are the main prize on the flats. They're smart, selective, and spooky. They have excellent vision and will bolt at the slightest thing that seems off. A shadow from your rod, a ripple from your cast, even your line glinting in the sun. I've watched them follow a fly for 10 feet and then spook for no reason I could see.

What makes them so challenging?

They're hypersensitive to noise, shadows, and even subtle changes in water pressure. Their senses and survival instincts are dialed in. Once hooked, they'll try to rub their mouth on the bottom or zigzag through coral heads to get rid of the hook.

Behavior and diet

They feed primarily on crustaceans. Crabs, shrimp, and urchins. They don't have teeth. Instead, they crush prey with powerful jaws and grinding plates in the back of their mouths.

Typically, one will cruise slowly over a flat, often in water 2 to 4 feet deep, searching for food. When they spot a crab or a shrimp, they tip downward to grab it from the bottom. This tailing means they're happy and feeding actively. They'll also follow stingrays. As the ray starts flapping its wings and mudding, crustaceans get stirred up from the bottom, ready for the permit to snatch. Always check if there's one following when you spot a ray.

In deeper channels, where the flat drops off towards the deeper water, they sometimes school up or follow other fish like jacks. But on the shallow flats, larger adults are often solitary or in small groups of two or three. Juvenile permit might travel in larger schools of a dozen or more, but these smaller fish (2 to 10 pounds) can be just as wary as the big ones.

We use fly patterns that imitate crabs and shrimp and must present them lifelike (more on presentation later). This also means stealth and patience are key. It's more like hunting. Quietly poling or wading, scanning for a shadow, a black tip, or nervous water, then making a cast when we find them.

When and where to find them

Southern waters (Placencia, Hopkins, and the South Water Caye Marine Reserve area) are some of the best permit fishing on earth.

Year-round fishing, but timing matters

Thanks to a mild tropical climate, water temperatures stay permit-friendly through all seasons. That said, certain times of year and conditions will stack the odds in your favor. Based on my experience and historical fishing patterns, the peak months tend to be late spring through summer (roughly March through August), with another productive period in the fall (October and November).

Check the month-to-month fishing calendar for a more in-depth breakdown of the seasons.

Southern waters are stacked

Placencia and the Southern Cayes are located near a rich network of flats. A short boat ride from Placencia and Hopkins is a region known as "Permit Alley," a stretch of endless shallows and pancake flats, with tiny cayes inside the protection of the barrier reef. This area is part of the South Water Caye Marine Reserve and offers hundreds of acres of prime habitat. Shallow turtle grass meadows, sand and coral flats, and lagoons. On a good day in this region, you might get a dozen or more legitimate shots.

Placencia is a great home base. With just a 30-minute boat ride, we'll be right on the flats. When conditions allow, we can also run a bit further to the outer reef flats, which can hold bigger fish, though they're more weather-dependent. The Placencia lagoon (west side of the peninsula) is mostly too murky for sight-fishing, but the ocean side and nearby cayes more than make up for it. If you're staying up north from Placencia, near Hopkins, or more south towards Punta Gorda, you're still within striking distance of these same fisheries.

Northern areas, say Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker, also have a healthy population, often schooling fish. In those areas, it's common to see larger schools of 5 to 20 juveniles on the flats. That can be great for first-timers because you may get more shots (and smaller fish can be slightly more forgiving). However, the largest ones (20+ pounders) are more frequently found on the southern flats near Placencia and Hopkins.

Fish the tides, not the clock

The right tide can make all the difference in finding a feeding permit. They're opportunists and will feed whenever there is moving water, whether the tide is rising or falling. Change is key. A slack (dead still) tide equals inactive fish, whereas a tide flowing in or out is like a dinner bell. I love an incoming tide on a calm morning. As soon as the water starts creeping over the flat, permit waiting in the channels will push up to start tailing. In the early phase of a rising tide, we often find them cruising the edges, waiting for enough depth to get onto the flat. This is a perfect time to work the drop-offs and channel mouths with a slightly heavier fly and maybe even use a hybrid crustacean fly pattern like the Avalon.

As the tide fills in, they spread out and tail in the shallows. Prime sight-fishing time. Then, when the tide shifts to outgoing, I get excited because the first hour or two of a falling tide can be incredibly productive. They have limited time left to feed before the flat dries up, and they often chow down until the receding water forces them off the flat. By mid or late-falling tide, however, you'll see fewer fish on the flat. They've slipped back to deeper areas to wait for the cycle to repeat.

Because of this, I always plan my trips around the tides. So be it if that means starting at 5:30 AM to catch a sunrise high tide or fishing through sunset for a dusk high. We might take a midday break when the tide goes slack and then head back out when the water starts moving again.

Moon phases: new moon vs. full moon

The moon's phase is related to tides since the moon drives the tidal heights. A full or new moon creates slightly bigger tide swings, while quarter moons result in more moderate tides. Bigger tides can trigger strong feeding if timed right, but they come with a catch.

Full moon

A full moon lights up the night, potentially letting permit feed all night when we're asleep. Fish that eat all night under a bright moon won't be as aggressive during the day. This doesn't mean you can't catch them, but you might be a step behind if the fish have been stuffing themselves throughout the night. If you must fish on a full moon cycle, I'd plan to hit the flats at first light to target them before they've had all morning to digest and get picky.

New moon

Half moons give gentle tides, sometimes making fish movements more predictable, but less intense. Since water levels change slowly on a quarter moon, they feed more leisurely. This can be good for consistent tailing action throughout the rising tides, but without the frenzy that a fast tide change can bring.

Moon phases in summary

If you have the luxury of planning far ahead, take a look at the lunar calendar before booking. If not, don't get too caught up in it. You can catch them on a full moon week. I've done it plenty. Fish whenever you can. Just be aware of how the moon and tides may influence behavior.

Weather and conditions

Weather can change quickly, and being mindful of the conditions will help you adapt on the water.

Wind

The constant variable in saltwater fishing. A light breeze (5 to 10 mph) can actually help by shaking up the surface slightly. This makes it harder for the fish to see you and the fly line, and they tend to be a bit bolder in shallow water with a breeze. Too much wind (20+ mph) can make both sighting fish and casting more challenging. If a strong wind kicks up, I'll often work to the lee side of islands or mangroves where we have shelter or focus on other, somewhat protected flats.

Sunny vs. cloudy conditions

This is another crucial factor. A sunny day with a blue sky gives us better visibility to spot them cruising from afar. A cloudy or a rainy day can make it almost impossible to see cruising fish until we practically step on them. If we get an overcast day, I often rely mostly on standard fish-holding spots and watch for subtle clues (nervous water and tail tips breaking the surface). If heavy rain rolls through, we may take cover and wait it out. After a rain, the water can cool a degree or two, which might liven fish during hot weather, so a storm isn't always bad news (unless it's a full-day downpour).

Essential gear and tackle

Now that we've covered the when and where, let's get into the how. The gear and tactics that will set you up for success.

Come prepared

We don't have big tackle shops down here, so it's important to pack the right gear. For a detailed packing list, check out my gear checklist, which covers rods, reels, lines, leaders, flies, clothing, and more in depth. Here, I'll highlight the essential tackle specifically and a few personal preferences.

Rods and reels

Fly rods

A 9-foot, 9 to 10 weight rod is the standard. In most situations, a 9 weight is the sweet spot. It has the backbone to turn a strong fish and to cast in moderate wind, but still offers some finesse for accurate presentations. If it's calm or the fish tail in skinny water, I'd go for the 9 weight. If the wind kicks up or we're seeing fish in deeper water where longer casts are needed, the 10 weight comes in handy. I like a fast-action rod, as you want one that can quickly deliver a cast at 40 to 60 feet.

Fly reels

A quality saltwater reel to match the rod is a must. These fish are strong and run fast, so you'll need a reel with a smooth and reliable drag system. A large arbor reel is helpful for quick line pickup. Make sure your reel can hold at least 200 yards of backing. One in open water might take you well into the backing with its first run. I've seen 30-pounders strip 100 yards off in seconds. I typically spool up with 30-pound Dacron or gel-spun backing. The drag should be tight enough to prevent overruns but not so tight that a sudden run can break the tippet.

Fly lines

You'll want a tropical saltwater weight-forward floating line of the same weight as your rod (9 or 10 weight). Tropical lines have stiffer cores and coatings that won't turn to noodles in our heat and humidity.

A weight-forward taper for quick loading is ideal. Something marketed for saltwater flats or bonefish. These lines typically allow you to make a fast shot with minimal false casts. We often make 30 to 50 foot casts to moving fish, sometimes very quickly. A line that loads your rod easily and turns over crab flies is what you need.

Some lines have a slightly dull color (sand, blue, olive), which can be nice to avoid spooking fish in shallow, clear water. Bright orange fly lines can work as well, but I lean toward subdued colors on spooky flats.

Leader and tippets

They aren't overly leader-shy, but they require a strong leader for abrasion resistance against coral, and for turning over heavier flies. I typically use a 9 to 12-foot tapered leader ending in 16 pound fluorocarbon. Fluorocarbon has excellent abrasion resistance and is less visible in water. In very calm conditions with picky fish, I might drop to 15 pound or 12 pound, but I rarely go under that. These fish can get big, and you don't want to play around with a light tippet.

You can buy pre-made tapered leaders rated for permit (16 pound class), which work fine. I often add a section of bite tippet (~2 feet of fluoro) to the end of a 16-pound leader to get a longer overall leader and to replace the tippet as it gets shorter from re-tying flies.

Check your leader often during the day. Flies usually ride on the bottom, which means your tippet can rub on coral, rocks, or grass. After any missed strike or fish, feel the last few feet of the leader for nicks and replace if needed.

Other tackle

Use strong saltwater-grade hooks on your flies (most come on quality hooks #2 to #6). You don't need a wire bite tippet unless barracuda or sharks are around and biting you off, which is uncommon on permit flies.

I recommend having weed guards on all your flies. A simple mono loop or V-shaped guard. A weed guard will save you from hanging up on turtle grass or coral bits as you crawl the fly towards that feeding fish.

Which fly to tie on

Every guide has their favorites, and every angler's fly box ends up a little different. That said, there are some proven patterns that you'll want to carry. Since their diet is crab and shrimp heavy, those are the imitations we focus on.

Here's a breakdown of the recommended flies and how to use them:

Crab flies

These are the bread and butter. Classics like the Merkin Crabs in size 4 or 6, tied in tan, olive, or brown, as well as Bauer Crab (often tied with a fuzzy body and mottled colors) are staple flies. These have been catching fish for decades down here. I also love flies like the Raghead, and the newer patterns like the EP Crab and Flexo Crab, which use synthetic fibers or tubing for a realistic translucent look. They can be picky about size or color on a given day, so variety helps.

Down here, tans and olives tend to match the turtle grass and sand mix. If fish are over pure sand, a lighter tan or white/cream colored fly is good. Olive or brown/brownish reds can blend in better over darker bottoms.

Weight

Have a mix of weights. Some with lead dumbbell eyes (heavier) and some with bead chain eyes (lighter). In shallow (1 to 2 feet) water with tailing fish, you want a lighter fly that lands softly and doesn't make too big of a splash. A heavier dumbbell might be needed to get down in 3 to 5 feet, or if there's a strong current. We often tie our crabs on #4 hooks with medium lead eyes for general use and duplicate the pattern with small bead chain eyes for skinny water.

Shrimp flies

The Mantis Shrimp pattern is a well-known fly (e.g., EP Spawning Shrimp or Veverka's Mantis Shrimp). These usually have a long tail and dumbbell or bead eyes, and come in colors like tan, olive, or pinkish tan. Another is the Squimp, a shrimp/crab hybrid fly. Shrimp flies can be very effective, especially when fish are a bit more finicky. If you notice they're ignoring crabs, or when cruising in deeper water. If one repeatedly refuses your crab fly, it's worth trying out a shrimp pattern.

Presentation tip

Shrimp flies can be fished more actively with small strips, whereas a crab fly is often best just dropped and barely moved (more on presentation soon).

Other essentials

Polarized sunglasses

This is absolutely critical for spotting fish. Amber, copper, or brown lenses work best on the flats.

Clothing

Wear neutral-colored, lightweight clothing. Flats fishing is a stealth game. No bright neon shirts or hats. I prefer sky blue, grey, or tan long-sleeve shirts and buffs to blend in with the horizon and protect me from the sun. Quick-dry fishing pants or shorts and good wading boots or flats sneakers are essential when we have to get out of the boat to stalk the fish on foot. Proper flats boots will save your feet from sharp coral, urchins, or shells.

Sun protection

The sun down here is intense. A wide-brim hat or cap, buff, and reef-safe sunscreen are must haves.

Techniques and strategies for success

You can be in the right spot at the perfect time, with the ideal fly pattern, and still walk away empty if your presentation isn't up to par or if you mishandle that critical moment of truth.

In this section, I'll break down the strategies that have worked for me and my clients on the flats.

Stalking the flats: poling vs. wading

Each method has advantages, and depending on conditions and the fish's behavior, we often use both in a single day.

Poling the flats from a skiff

The classic scenario. I stand on the back of the skiff and push it along the flat while you stand on the bow. Poling allows us to cover a lot of water relatively quietly. With an elevated view, we can spot fish at a distance and maneuver the boat to set you up for the best possible casting opportunity. The downside is that even the quietest boat creates noise and a bigger profile. In very shallow water, pushing a boat can send pressure waves that a sensitive fish might detect.

On the bow, you should stand ready. That means 40 to 50 feet of line stripped out on deck, no tangles, and rod in hand with a few feet of fly line outside the tip for a quick start. As we pole, I'll usually call out targets like "Permit, 11 o'clock, about 80 feet, moving toward us!" We then ease into position for a cast. I'll whisper directions and sometimes instruct you to wait before casting if the angle isn't right. A common mistake is rushing a cast from the boat when the fish isn't in a good position. If it's coming at us, I often wait until it's within 50 to 60 feet and then have you cast when you can see the fish.

Approaching on foot

There are times when we leave the skiff behind. Wading can be incredibly effective for tailing fish in skinny water on calm days. No hull noise, no platform rocking, no big boat profile. Often, if I see a group tailing in water less than knee-deep, I'll stake the boat a good distance away and we'll stalk them on foot. This also lets us approach the fish from whatever angle we want by circling them.

When wading, the key is to move slowly and stay low. Hunch down and slide your feet carefully rather than lifting them high or out of the water. If the fish are tail-up, you can sometimes get within 30 feet before making your cast. The disadvantage is we can't cover ground as quickly as poling in the skiff.

Always keep a low profile and avoid sudden movements, whether poling or wading. Don't wave your arms around. Keep the rod tip low until you start casting. Make your casts smooth and deliberate without unnecessary false casts, and keep any chatter to a minimum. Speak in low tones.

Casting to a permit

One is in sight. Now, it comes down to your presentation. This is all about where you land the fly, how you move it, and convincing the fish that the clump of EP fibers, McFly foam, or fur is real food. Let's break it down step by step.

Casting accuracy and speed

You usually get one or two, maybe three, casts before the fish eats, spooks, or simply wanders off. You should be comfortable casting 40 to 50 feet into the wind, quickly. A fast, tight-loop cast is needed to punch through typical breezes on the flats. Being able to double haul proficiently will increase your success. If you're reading this ahead of your trip, do yourself a favor and do some practice casting. Set a target in the yard at 50 to 60 feet and try to hit it consistently. The goal is to deliver your fly on target within a few seconds. A common saying is to "hit it on the head." While not literal, this means placing the fly a few feet in front of the fish's nose. I'd typically opt for putting the fly 2 to 3 feet in front and maybe a foot or two beyond its path so that when you strip, you lead the fish by crossing it right in front of its face.

Presenting the fly (Crab vs. shrimp technique)

Crab fly presentation

The general rule for fishing crab fly patterns is less is more. If one is cruising, you want to cast the crab ahead of it, let it sink into its path, and then give one short strip to get the fish's attention. Often, the next move is to do nothing. If it sees the crab fly sinking, it may swim over, tip down, and eat it off the bottom. Then, you wait to feel the take and strip set (more on hook setting soon).

If the fish doesn't see it, a slight twitch or two can help. Long, slow strips that make the crab look like it's crawling along the bottom are effective. You don't want erratic, fast stripping. A crab doesn't jet away like a baitfish. If one is tailing, the best approach is often to slide the fly very slowly right in front of its nose. Cast slightly beyond the fish, gently drag the fly with a very slow strip to position, then stop and wait. The next time that fish lifts its head and moves, it might just see your fly and eat it.

Many times, no movement is the right move. If the fish starts to swim away and doesn't see your fly, you can try a couple of gentle strips to catch its eye. If it follows a moving crab fly, do a slow, steady strip. Like a crab trying to escape along the sand. Do not strip too fast or jerk the fly.

Shrimp fly presentation

With shrimp patterns, you can be more animated. They will often chase a fleeing shrimp (especially smaller, curious ones). For shrimp flies, I still start by getting it close to the fish. Once the fish notices, I'll use a series of shorter strips. Twitch-strip, twitch-strip, pause. If it follows, continue a slow strip to keep the shrimp "swimming". One nice thing about a shrimp pattern is that the fish often eats it while still moving, meaning it tends to hook itself as it turns.

Reading body language

As you present the fly, watch the fish's body language closely. If it turns toward your fly, great, it's interested. If it tips nose down where your fly is, it probably picked it up, so do a strip set. If it suddenly flares away, you spooked it. If it ignores the fly entirely and keeps cruising, you may need to try again or try a different fly. If you're sure the fish saw your fly and didn't want it, consider changing up the fly pattern and/or colorway.

Targeting multiple fish

When targeting a school, it's often best to cast to the lead fish or just ahead of the school. Sometimes, the competition can make them more aggressive. One fish might race another to eat the fly. But it can also create chaos if one spooks. It will probably cause a chain reaction and spook the whole bunch.

Strip set

Do not raise the rod tip to set the hook in tropical saltwater fishing. Instead, you do a strip set. This means when you think the fish ate your fly, feel its weight, or see the fly disappear, you do a long, firm pull on the fly line with your stripping hand, while the rod tip stays low and is pointed at the fish. As soon as you feel the weight of the fish, you should lift your rod smoothly and keep it high to ensure it remains as close to the surface as possible, and as far away from the occasional coral heads while running.

Fighting the fish once it's hooked

Once the hook is set, hold on. A decent one will immediately realize something's wrong and take off like a rocket. Let the fish run, but make sure there are no tangles or loose coils of line that can snag. Clearing the line from the boat deck is critical in those first few seconds.

Fights are often characterized by one big, strong run and a few shorter ones when the fight gets close.

If the fish runs, let it run against the drag. When it slows or stops, it's your turn to start retrieving the line. Keep the rod tip high and reel in as much line as you can before it starts running again. When it gets closer, angle the rod to the side to apply side pressure to the opposite side the fish is facing. Check your drag tension. I usually avoid adjusting the drag mid-fight unless you have to. If you do, be very careful. Too tight, and it will likely slip and be gone forever.

Frequently asked questions

What is the best time of year to catch permit?

It's a year-round fishery, but late spring through summer (approximately March through August) is often a good period for finding them on the flats.

That said, they can be caught in any month if conditions cooperate. The key is to plan around favorable tides and avoid the days around the full moon. If you're looking to target them and also big migratory tarpon, aim for April to June which overlaps both species' peaks.

Where are the best places to find them?

They're found throughout the coastline, but southern waters are world-famous for the flats. The areas between Placencia and Hopkins (including the flats of "Permit Alley" in the South Water Caye Marine Reserve) are prime habitats.

Northern areas (Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker) also have good fishing, often with larger schools of smaller fish, making it an excellent place for a first permit. However, if you're after that picture-perfect tailing experience and potentially larger ones, Placencia and the southern cayes are hard to beat.

What gear should I bring?

Bring a 9 foot saltwater rod with a quality reel, a reliable drag system, and at least 200 yards of backing. Use a tropical weight-forward floating fly line. Leaders are typically 9 to 12 feet, tapered to 16 pound fluorocarbon. For flies, stock up on crab patterns (Merkin, Bauer, Raghead, Flexo Crab, etc., in size #4 or #6) in tan, olive, and brown, and some shrimp patterns (EP Shrimp, Mantis Shrimp).

Make sure to have a mix of weights (light bead-chain eyes for shallow water, heavier lead dumbbells for deeper water). Other essentials include polarized sunglasses (amber or copper lenses), saltwater wading boots, sun protection (long sleeves, hat, buff, sunscreen), small tools (nippers, pliers), and a waterproof pack for gear.

Why are they so hard to catch?

They're incredibly wary and skittish. Their survival depends on being alert to predators, so they spook at the slightest odd sight or sound. They have sharp vision and live in clear, shallow water, so any misstep is easily noticed.

Their feeding behavior is unpredictable. Sometimes, they'll charge a fly. Other times, they'll ignore the same presentation. Even when one is interested, it might follow the fly and then refuse it at the last second.

Lastly, they often require very accurate casts. You need to put the fly right in front of them without spooking them.

All these factors combined give them a reputation as one of the toughest game fish on the planet. In short, they're hard to fool and hold onto, but that's precisely what makes finally catching one such an achievement.

Do I need a guide to catch them?

It's not impossible to DIY, but having an experienced guide dramatically increases your chances of a hookup. It will be hard to reach the flats without a boat, and from there, there are hundreds of flats to choose from. Picking the right one for the current tidal range might be hard to figure out independently. Also, they're notoriously tricky, and a guide brings a wealth of knowledge. Lastly, a guide will spot fish for you 100+ feet away, position the boat for the optimal shot, recommend flies or strategies that have been working lately, and coach on your presentation if needed.

Book a charter

Get in touch via mail at [email protected], or through WhatsApp at (501) 661-5709 to check available dates.

If I'm already booked on your preferred dates, I'll do my best to connect you with another skilled guide from my network. To ensure you'll get to book the dates you want, I recommend reaching out as soon as possible in advance for peak season (spring and summer). If not, feel free to get in touch anyway. Sometimes, I have set aside some dates for walk-ins and might also have a cancellation or a flex day.

Once you're all booked, we'll make a game plan to target what you want and aim for the best tide cycle to maximize the chances. Feel free to ask if you have any questions before booking.

Want to learn more about Placencia as a destination?

Check out the article Fishing in Placencia: A local guide's perspective.